My overnight coach from Yangon arrived in Kalaw at 5 in the morning. As it was a mountainous area it was damn cold, misty and dark. I had already pre-booked a hotel but had no idea whether they would let me into my room so early, but only one way to find out. My hotel was only a few minutes walk up the road and another half a dozen travellers followed me as they hadn’t booked anywhere yet.
On arrival at the hotel we could see a few members of staff all sleeping on the foyer floor, this seems quite common as they seem to sleep anywhere where theres space. A few knocks on the door and they were all up. One guy said that i couldn’t check in until 2 p.m., what was i to do for the next 8 hours ?! I was about to try and go to sleep on the sofas for a while before one of the other members of staff realised that i would just be making the place look messy (and taking up space where a staff member was sleeping) so let me into my room early. Phew.
One of the main attractions of Kalaw, apart from the cool temperatures due to its altitude, was the trekking to be done. After some web reasearch i found some good reports about Sam and his family restaurant and trekking business. Sam was a man in his early 70’s and was very passionate about trekking and the countryside where he lived. After listening to him talk you couldn’t help but book up a tour with him. I booked a 3 day/2 night trek covering about 55 kms, we were to trek through local villages, met different minority groups, and stay with local families in homestays.
The start of the trek outside Sams Family restaurant –
We trekked through the local countryside meeting villagers on the way, some were farming in the fields, some on their long walks to work, often having to move out of the way whilst people went through their daily lives.
Our first lunchtime stop was at this couples house –
The young girl on the left was our tour guide – Sonia, she was brilliant knowing all the plants, vegatables, flowers, and knowing how they were used for different purposes such as skin remedies or for aches and pains. The old couple were in their 70’s, their youngest child still lived with them which is quite often what happens, the youngest staying to look after the parents. Whilst the other children were out working in the fields the grandparents would quite often look after some of the youngest grandchildren.
Saying goodbye to the youngest and oldest –
The locals kids are always intrigued –
Various views from the 3 day journey –
Countryside of Kalaw
Evening meal at one of the homestays
Around the countryside of Kalaw
Trekking in Kalaw
Only one thing to do when you need a new basket, make a new one out of the bamboo growing in your back yard –
Make your own basket
Trekking in Kalaw
We stopped off at a local school on the third day as two Singaporean girls on the trip had brought some gifts to donate, some tooth brushes and pens, all the kids were delighted !!
All the kids were very hard working and loved being at school. There were 5 different grades and only 2 teachers. I was surprised to learn that the children start to learn English at about the age of 5. They stay at school until 13 but then they normally go to work in the fields as their parents can’t afford to send them to secondary school.
School kids in Kalaw
School kids hard at work
The trek ended at the south end of Lake Inle, we had our final lunch together and compared aches and pains. None of us were experienced hikers, i turned up with my sailing shoes as the only other shoes i had were sandals. The last supper –
The last supper
The final part of the trip was a boat trip to the north of Lake Inle to our accomodation.
Getting on our boat –
Other tourists leaving on their long boat –
Long boat to Lake Inle
Heading out of the lake –
Life on the lake –
Lake Inle Kalaw
Life on Lake Inle
You can’t see the sign but this was the Post Office !!
Lake Inle Kalaw
Fisherman rowing with his leg –
Lake Inle Kalaw
It was a great 3 days seeing some fantastic scenary, meeting some very friendly people and enjoying the company of our guide – thank you Sonia !!
I arrived in Bago at lunchtime and found a hotel nearby to stay. I learnt from the owner that there were two pegodas to go and see and a reclining Buddha. I was told that you couldn’t walk to them all as you needed a motorbike but i could see the spire of one of the pagodas so i took a stroll. After a while all the temples look the same in a particular country and all the pagodas too, this was no different. Don’t get me wrong, it was still an impressive sight but just a smaller version of the one i had seen in Yangon and when they want to charge foreigners $10 to get in i didn’t see the point. I think this is what use to happen in Thailand years ago, foreigners were always charged more than locals but after a while they changed things or certainly made the prices very similar. I think the same is happening here in Myanmar, tourists are appearing and they are making ths most of it, it will probably change as years go by. Anyway not another $10 from me so i strolled back to the hotel.
This was the pagoda from outside –
Pagoda at Bago
I’d seen enough reclining Buddhas in Thailand so didn’t want to see another and finding the other pagoda didn’t tickle my fancy in the heat of the afternoon. Later on i went out for something to eat and had a few beers. The locals were friendly as ever and as i don’t think many tourists stopped there i was a bit of an oddity. Most people when they hear you come from England just quote football teams at you and have a simple chat so no harm done.
Back on the train in the morning i headed for Kyaiktiyo to go and see the Golden Rock Kinpun.
Train arriving at Bago Station
Even goats on the track wouldn’t stop the train coming in, you can imagine what chaos it would cause back at home !!
Goats on the track at Bago Station
Upper class again for the three hour journey this time for $1.3 , the buffet trolley soon arrived –
Food seller on train to Kyaiktiyo
Scenes from the train trip –
Old style levers still in use –
We arrived at the train station and had to swap to a local bus for the last few miles –
Arriving at Kyaiktiyo station
The truck was full up so i sat on the roof with a few others –
At Kyaiktiyo station
I arrived at the town of Kinpun which is at the base of where Golden Rock is. It was a very busy place bustling with lots of people with a stream of coaches and buses arriving and departing. The majority of people were Burmese as Golden Rock is one of the most sacred sites, it is said that every Burmese person will visit here at least once in their life. I was told by another traveller to leave as early as possible in the morning as it got very busy very quickly. He was told that the trucks start going up the hill at 6 a.m. but he saw them leaving earlier, because of this i was at the truck stop and sitting in the back of an open top truck at 5.15 a.m. The trucks did indeed go earlier but only drove around the corner and stopped until sunrise at 6 a.m., so i had to sit in an open topped truck in the cold and mist until they opened the road !!
People climbing into the trucks at the truck stop –
The drive to the top was quite exhilerating in itself as they didn’t hang about, time is money as they say.
Truck racing at Golden Rock Kinpun
Well here it is – Golden Rock Kinpun !!
Golden Rock Kinpun
Golden Rock Kinpun
‘According to legend, the Golden Rock itself is precariously perched on a strand of the Buddhas hair. A glimpse of the “gravity defying” Golden Rock is believed to be enough of an inspiration for any person to turn to Buddhism.’ – not for me it wasn’t.
It was a good place to hang out and watch the locals with their families enjoy themselves.
The monks at Golden Rock Kinpun
Praying at Golden Rock Kinpun
Little Monks at Golden Rock Kinpun
This is not the job you want at altitude !! –
As it had started to get busy i returned to the truck stop for the exciting drive back down.
When i arrived back down in the town i managed to get in before breakfast closed at my hotel and then had a couple of hours to kill. I was booked on a coach to take me back to Yangon, from there i was going to get an overnight coach to Kalaw further north.
Unfortunately the first coach was made for Asians as you had to be 5ft or under to fit your legs behind the seat in front. Bad news for me, i had to sit with my legs spread wide open with my knees hard up against the hard plastic seat in front. I was hoping that the people in front would not realise that they could recline their seats but 10 minutes into the journey the worst happened. Oh well, it was only another 4 hours of torture to go.
I survived the journey and arrived at the coach station out of town. I now had 3 hours to kill before my VIP coach to Kalaw. Fortunately there were restaurants and bars to go to so the time passed quickly. I found my coach company amongst the 200 odd or so companies and checked in. The VIP coaches are great, big wide seats that recline, two seats one side of the coach and a single seat the other. Drinks,snacks,wet wipes and blankets are all provided for the 17 dollar cost for a 10 hour overnight coach trip.
